Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Day 11 Upsala to Thunder Bay, Ontario

Today I didn't derive a lot of pleasure from my ride but my sense of achievement more than made up for that. I didn't particularly want to stay in the dive of a motel in Upsala I was staying at so I inhaled a muffin and headed out into the rain at 6 am. The high today was only 12 degrees so my hands and feet went numb by around the 70 km mark. I stopped at all 3 rest stops between Upsala and Thunder Bay but the only way to stay warm was to pedal like hell, so that's what I did. The legs feel strong now as I was able to pedal through some intermittent headwinds. I may be 54 but I have the strength and stamina of a 53 year old!

I made it to Thunder Bay around noon and got myself a room in the stately old Prince Arthur Hotel for $15 more than the dive in Upsula. I have a splendid view of the lake, mountains, laker boats, city, marina, grain elevator, skateboard park and old train station. I might just stay here for July 1.

Today's milestones included:

- crossing into the Eastern time zone; I have crossed 2 on this trip
- passing the western extreme of the Atlantic watershed, which means that all streams and rivers east of that point flow into the Atlantic
- my first glimpse of Lake Superior. Impressive.

It was a bit rainy even for the wildlife; all I saw today was a fox.

Today's ride was dedicated to my employer, McGill University and in particular my boss, Louise Savard, for understanding how much this project means to me and for being flexible around the scheduling. Thanks a million.

Sorry about the late posting of Day 10. I have been unable to get a signal since Dryden. For those who may bother to check numbers (like my CA buddy Gil)please note that the trip distance may exceed the daily totals because at the end of each day I sometimes do short rides that add to the odometer's total.

Today's distance: 127.8 km.
Average speed: 24.4 km.
Trip distance to date: 1296.5 km.

Day 10 Ignace to Upsala Ontario


Today my choices were to bike 55, 105 or 255 km., based on availability of accommodations. I was ready to stop in English River at the 55 km mark because it was raining and because I had made reservations at the English River Inn months ago. But when I got there the rain had stopped and the road was dry so I cancelled my reservation and moved on, but not before the nice folks at the English River Inn gave me breakfast.

Today's ride was relatively easy, with the wind pushing from the north as I head southeast towards Thunder Bay. the scenery is reminiscent of the forests in northeast NB, with lots of moose bog.

Today's ride was dedicated to my colleague Joe whose mother passed away over the weekend. My deepest sympathies.

Today's distance: 106 km.
Average speed: 23.6
Trip distance to date: 1168.5 km

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Day 9 Dryden to Ignace, Ontario

This old heart of mine probably couldn't take another day of excitement from the Dryden Moose Fest so I decided to hit the road in spite of a rainy forecast. And rain it did... ...all the way to Ignace. The upside was a nice tailwind that helped push me along nicely. I could have gone even faster if I wasn't so laden down with spare muffins. ;-)

The road was pretty good but not as nice as yesterday. Paved shoulder most of the way but only a foot wide in parts. I got pretty wet in the process but I can still feel most of my extremities so all-in-all it was a successful trip.

Today I passed the 1000 km. mark of the trip; at this rate there is a better than 50/50 chance I will make it home for Christmas.

Today's ride: 108.1 km.
Average speed: 23.9
Trip distance to date: 1059.2 km.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Day 8 - Rest Day in Dryden


Today is a wash-out in the town of Dryden. This logging town of app. 7000 people is struggling big-time as their gigantic Domtar pulp mill has been closed since April and there aren't too many other jobs around. This probably explains why I didn't see any pulp trucks on my ride from Kenora.

My timing was unbelievable - I arrived just in time for the annual Dryden Moose Fest and today was their big (first annual) soap box derby. They had almost 25 entries and there must have been nearly 200 fans on King street taking in the event; this town hasn't seen this much excitement in years. I thought I would be bummed out missing the 30th annual Montreal jazz fest, but this festival is really something. I understand that on July 1st they are even going to launch a firework.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is again sketchy - hoping to make a break for Upsala because although it remains wet, the winds are blowing in the right direction.

Day 7 Kenora to Dryden, Ont


Sorry about the late posting; unfortunately Rogers network does not work in Dryden so I am doing this from a motel computer. If I am having signal problems here I expect more difficulties along the route so don't worry if my blogs are not appearing every day.

Day 7 was by far my most enjoyable. The scenery along the way was spectacular and the roadway was as close to perfect as you will find: a 10 foot wide smooth, paved shoulder all the way. I had to get reacquainted with hill climbing and to deal with a light headwind but it was pleasant riding from start to finish.

This day was one of my best ever in terms of nature watching. I left Kenora at the crack of dawn and pulled over for a breakfast break about 20 km. out of town. I was sitting on a rock outcrop enjoying a Tim's bran/raspberry muffin when a magnificent timber wolf stepped out from the bushes about 50 feet away from me back down the road. He was totally unaware of my presence because he was keeping an eye on a big rig coming up the road towards us. This is the first wolf I have ever seen in the wild. He sidled along the road towards me and then crossed right in front of me, just a few feet away. This is a moment that will stick with me forever because right then and there I realized that I should have bought a second muffin; man was it delicious! I pondered that muffin all the way to Dryden so let this wolf story be a lesson to you - when a muffin opportunity comes your way don't ever pass it up.

Not far from there I came across a young deer standing on the grass close to the road. I got off my bike to take a picture and he approached me as if he was already imprinted by humans and wanted some food. Unfortunately he took off when he realized I had no food because STUPID ONLY BOUGHT 1 MUFFIN...

Other wildlife included a new form of road CARnage, painted turtles, probably due to the roads being built right at the edge of some of the lakes. The bird life here is fantastic. The sounds are now a lot more familiar to me, with the calls of the eastern birds like white-throated sparrow, red-eyed vireo and the winter wrens replacing the calls of the western birds like yellow-headed blackbirds, western meadowlarks, and marsh wrens. Over the last 2 days I have seen bald eagles, red-tailed and broad winged hawks, a merlin (falcon), plenty of turkey vultures and lots of loons. To me, being out in the wilderness is anything but boring.

It looks like the string of good biking weather is coming to an end. After 7 consecutive days of favourable conditions the forecast is for heavy rain for at least a day and cooler temperatures for the better part of next week, so it looks like I am going to hang out in Dryden for a rest break.

Day 7's ride was dedicated to everybody who has figured out that money cannot buy happiness. It is too bad that Michael Jackson never figured that one out - may he rest in peace.

Day 7 distance: 135.5 km.
Average speed: 20.7
Trip distance to date: 940.6

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Day 6 Winnipeg to Kenora Ont



Today was a day of milestones starting with earliest departure time. I rolled out of Winnipeg when there was just a touch of daylight at the beginning of what turned out to be a dandy summer day. About 30 km. east of Winnipeg I passed the longitudinal mid point of Canada. I also put the prairies behind me and passed through mixed agricultural landscape, boreal forest and finally lake country where I got to climb some hills.

Early afternoon I put Manitoba behind me. It will surely take a few more than 4 days to cross Ontario.

The roads were fair to good most of this stretch, except for 18 km of construction starting at the Ontario border. A lot of the road had been stripped down to a waffle pattern makig for such nasty vibration that I am now speaking with a stutter. Then the flag man sent me down a dirt section right behind the watering truck, making for a nice mud bath. Good for the complexion but not the bike.

Today's ride is dedicated to my cousin Bob Duguay who is facing a much bigger challenge than this. In comparison this is a piece of cake. Get well, Bob.

A totally Bixi day.

Today's distance: 214.9 km.
Average speed: 23.6
Trip distance to date: 805.1 km.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Day 5 Portage La Prairie to Winnipeg

I made the right decision getting off the road early yesterday because the next 15 km. and another 40 km of the road to Winnipeg looked like this. It was sure a lot easier to get through this part with little traffic first thing in the morning than in the middle of the day. Summer weather is here and so are the west winds so the ride to Winnipeg was relatively easy.

I arrived at the home of my hosts Gyula and Esther at 10:30 a.m. leaving me plenty of time for laundry and a power nap. I met Esther at a conference we hosted at McGill a month ago.

Today's ride is dedicated to my wife Madeleine as we start our 20th year of wedded bliss. I am fortunate to be married to someone who is so supportive of my crazy bike trip and I am doubly lucky that she and my daughters derive great pleasure in my absence... ...hmm that didn't sound right...

More good weather on the way, Ontario now in my sights.

Today's ride: 92.7 km.
Average speed: 24.1
Trip distance to date: 590.2 km.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Day 4 Brandon to Portage La Prairie Manitoba


This morning I started out bright and early but after 30 km. I had to pull over for a Pandemic Contingency Planning Group conference call, a fairly standard activity for most cross country cyclists. Unfortunately as the meeting started so did a bit of a storm making it impossible for me to hear everything and causing noise over the phone for the rest of the participants. Finally they kicked me off and I got back to the more important job of cycling;-)

The flats are pretty much behind me now and so was the wind. I got rained on but not enough to force me to stop. The roads were not that great with paved shoulder only 50% of the way and disappearing and appearing without notice. That kind of road requires a lot of concentration and patience. I probably could have let the wind push me into Winnipeg but the traffic was getting too heavy so I stuck with my safety plan to get off the road by noon. Better to do tomorrow's stretch bright and early when the traffic is lighter.

Today's ride was dedicated to Metamucil, 'cuz u can't do this if you aint regular'.

Only 75 km. To do tomorrow - that will feel like a rest day.

Today's distance: 120 km.
Average Speed: 25.3
Trip distance to date: 497.5 km.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Day 3 Whitewood, Sask to Branden, Man


Today's ride is dedicated to Daniel Hurtubuise and his friend Robert Carrier who we're killed last June just outside of Virden Manitoba while doing a cross country bike ride for Juvenile diabetes with Daniel's son and daughter. I passed that spot around noon today, a rather melancholy moment. His memory lives on as his cause has been taken by his wife and kids.

I can now say I have biked in all 10 provinces, having crossed the border around 9 AM today. I had a good tail wind about 60% of the time and took good advantage of it. A tail wind to a cyclist is like a friendly hand on your back giving you that extra push. I like to think that was Daniel's hand helping me along today.

The road was again excellent right up to 40 km west of Branden, where the paved shoulder disappeared so I was glad to get off the road.

Today's road kill CARnage included the same as yesterday plus a fox and a badger but this was tempered by seeing a herd of live deer plus a lone male.

A grain elevator to a prairie town has a lot in common with village cathedrals in Quebec: it is a predominant, towering structure that can be seen for miles, and nobody goes there any more, except the ones converted into flea markets!

Today's distance: 193.9 km.
Average speed: 25.2
Trip Distance to date: 377.1 km.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Day 2 Indian Head to Whitewood Sask.


My innkeepers at the Golf View B&B, Chris and Coralie Schon are golf fanatics; both played rounds yesterday and managed to look after me and another 4 guests.



I didn't sleep all that great due the all the thunder claps and lightning flashes from a storm system passing through SE Saskatchewan. The forecast for the day wasn't all that promising but when I got up at sunrise it was dry so I made a run for it. Basically I chased a blue spot in the sky all morning and tried to outrun a rain system behind me. I succeeded in staying ahead but it meant having to fight strong headwinds all the way. The prairies aren't so flat any more and there are more and more clusters of trees.



No complaints about the road through Saskatchewan. So far is has been paved shoulder all the way with some spots 12 feet wide and a rumble strip separating me from the traffic.



Roadkill included 2 deer, 1 coyote, 1 skunk, many snakes, a few prairie dogs and a red tailed hawk. All this CARnage is a pity.



I met these 2 drifters in Broadview; they were hopping freight trains and hitchhiking back and forth between Man. and Sask., panhandling at the train towns. That instrument he is playing is called a "canjo".



Today is Father's day, a good occasion to pay tribute to my Dad who helped instill in me a sense of adventure. No adventure could compare with him going off to sail the high seas in wartime as a 17 year old navy enlistee. It was an adventure for me growing up just watching Dad doing his thing organizing people into sports, games and other activities - he coached and organized Little League Baseball, he led Tyros and Scouts, he ran the Recreation and Parks Association and he took us on all sorts of hiking, fishing, hunting and camping trips. He kept a lot of delinquents off the streets and kept a lot of us from becoming delinquents. Thanks Dad. Day 2 of my little adventure is dedicated to you - I hope you have a great day.



Distance today: 106.6 km

Average speed 18.2

Trip distance to date: 183 km.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Day 1 Regina to Indian Head

It wasn't necessary to come all the way to Saskatchewan to get a taste of adventure. I had forgotten what it was like in downtown Montreal at 4 AM on a Saturday - our neighbourhood was hopping with the late nighters, there was a police/fire operation blocking Park and Sherbrooke and the entrance to HWY was closed. So we detoured through St. Henri only to have the car break down in a really shady neighbourhood. I hopped a cab the rest of the way to the airport and left poor Madeleine to arrange for a tow.

Arrived in Regina bang on time and it took me a good hour to get the bike unpacked and assembled. I got on the road at noon and conditions were good, some tail wind, decent shoulders and I made it to Indian Head at 3:15 in fairly decent time. Just waiting for my inkeepers to show up so I can check in and enjoy a well deserved nap.

Distance today: 74.9 km.
Average speed 24.4 km.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Ready, set...

My flight to Regina is confirmed for this Saturday morning, June 20, and if all goes planned I will be on the road some time around noon EST. My destination for Day 1 is about 80 km from the airport at a B&B in a prairie farm town called Indian Head. The weather forecast calls for South winds, a high of 27 and a 70% chance of wet stuff.

I am as prepared as can be, having met my training goals - over 2700 km of road training and 7 rides exceeding 100 km. and later today I am taking my bike to the shop for a final tune-up, a new set of tires and to get it gift-wrapped for Saturday's flight. The rest is in the hands of the weatherman and the bicycle gods because this guy is ready to roll.

Friday, June 12, 2009

My Health and Safety Plan

When I tell people about my trip they commonly ask “isn't that dangerous?” to which my standard comeback is – well, do you know what’s really dangerous? Sitting on the couch, watching TV and eating chips, that’s what’s dangerous. It might not kill you right away but slowly, but surely, it will get you. Bicycling, on the other hand, makes you real healthy… provided you don’t end up as road kill, and this is the part I take very seriously. Given safety is my line of business I thought I would present you my health and safety game plan.

Choice of route Some routes are safer than others. Ideally there would be separate bike paths to take you everywhere but that is next to impossible once you get away from major centers like Montreal, so there is little choice but to ride the highways. Autoroutes are off-limits to bikes but we have every right to use the highways; unfortunately most drivers don’t know that so I never assume that drivers are going to give me a safe berth.

The ideal highway would have a clean, smooth, paved shoulder, very little traffic and would of course be all downhill and totally downwind. Yeah right. In many parts of Canada there is little choice of what highway to use and is why most cross-Canada cyclists go Trans Canada all the way. The advantage of the TC is that it is well-traveled and cell phone signals are available along most of the route so help is never too far away. The TC also presents the most opportunities for accommodations, an important factor for me since I am travelling light which means no camping. The down sides are that the TC can be very busy and there are sections in Manitoba and Ontario without a paved shoulder.

Timing Early is the operative word. Early morning is the best time to beat traffic, to get through major cities and to get by the difficult sections of the road. My plan is to get on the road as early as possible and to get off by mid-day, unless I am on a roll or I can’t stop due to the lack of accommodations.

Rear-view mirror. For me this is the most important safety device on the open road. I use one on my left handlebar which allows me to keep a close eye on what is coming behind me and determine if they are going to swing wide enough to pass safely. If not, I am not ashamed to bail out and pull over onto the shoulder. The situation to watch out for most is when there is approaching traffic and no room for the vehicles behind to swing into the next lane – another time to bail out. The rear-view also lets me spot wide loads, trailers, etc. that might drive onto the shoulder.

Helmet. I have been wearing a helmet since long before it was considered cool. It’s a no-brainer.

Equipment. Having good equipment reduces the risk of failure on the open road. A check-up and a tune-up just prior to the trip is essential, as are a new set of tires. The tires I use are called “Armadillos” as they have extra rubber for puncture resistance – the ones I installed last summer are still puncture-free at 3500 km.

Ergonomics. Comfort is the key to long distance riding. Cyclists usually get sore before they get tired. The key to success is to have a bike that is suited for your body and so well adjusted that you get tired before you get sore; that’s when you can really train and log the miles. A well adjusted bike also reduces the chance of stress injuries that can put a damper on bike trip.

Training. Conditioning has to be developed before the trip. A trip like this is tiring but if you are excessively tired you are at risk of making bad decisions and putting yourself into dangerous situations. I spun in the gym all winter and began road training in early April (brrr!).

Weather. On a cross country tour, I expect the weather to challenge me but I do not plan to challenge the weather. I am prepared to deal with some degree of rain, heat, old, sun, and headwind but the mistake I plan to avoid is messing with Mother Nature so if conditions are extreme I won’t hesitate to take a break. With any luck the stormy days will correspond with the days when I am due for some rest.

Sun Exposure. I will be outside every day it is sunny so I can’t completely avoid exposure, but I can minimize it by travelling early and avoiding the high noon sun, wearing UV shades, a sun visor, UV-rated shirts and applying nanoparticles (sunscreen).

Insects. I will be passing through Manitoba, the mosquito capital of the world so I will indeed bring my DEET. As part of my training I have been riding through the insect clouds on the Seaway Canal trail, where you have to smile in order to filter out the bugs and not inhale them. From that experience I have learned not to use greasy sunscreen when it is buggy otherwise you start to look like the creature from the dark lagoon.
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Nutrition. On a trip like this overeating is seldom a problem. I will eat as much and as often as I like and probably still lose weight. I still have to be careful about what I eat to stay “regular” but I don’t have to worry about the calorie count. How cool is that!

Hydration. I have 2 cages for water bottles for those hot days and I make it a habit to hydrate well before leaving in the morning.

Pace. Maintaining a sustainable pace is key to beaing able to ride day after day. While I can’t maintain the same pace as I did in my 20’s I am more tuned in to what my limits are and I find myself better able to find that right pace that I can maintain for long periods.

Road rage. Don’t indulge in it. On a bike out on the highway you are fully exposed and unable to outmuscle or outrun a car. For safety sake - keep your middle finger aligned with the rest of your fingers and your profanities in your head. If someone does something outrageous, try and note the license number and report them to the police.

Maintaining Contact. I will be in daily contact by way of e-mail, blog and phone and thanks to this modern technology I have access to emergency assistance along the way. I may be going to some remote areas but I will never really be alone.

Wildlife. No worries about moose, bear and other wilderness animals ever since they signed a peace treaty with cyclists back in the 60’s, but dogs are another story. Dogs have it in for cyclists, maybe it’s the mesmerizing effect of the wheels or the fact that bikes go away when you bark at them. There are several options for dealing with dogs and not a whole lot of time to size up the dog and decide on the best course of action. My preferred action is to run as I can outrun most dogs but if things get out of hand there is a section in Richard's Bicycle Book that is essential reading for cross-country cyclists.

Terrorism. Obviously this is my biggest worry. It is a well-known fact that Osama Bin Laden and his cronies are in a cave in Pakistan plotting a surprise attack of the sort that nobody will expect. After years of deliberations they have figured out that the best way to take us by surprise is to go after some random guy riding his bicycle in Northern Canada. This is so obvious when you think about it. But don't worry I have a plan to deal with those nasty terrorists - I will assault them with shaving cream. Apparently they are really afraid of shaving.